Delfina

Does it make any sense at all to have a bit of uneasiness about writing a review of a place that one is very fond of? I hope so. Otherwise there is no explaining not including Delfina in the BevX Fave Spot segment from day one. I suppose I was simply concerned that my words would not adequately convey my love of this restaurant. On second thought, I am far more uneasy with that Oprah Show-style confessional so I will get on with telling you why you should dine at Delfina.

Delfina is an unassuming spot in San Francisco’s Mission District far away from the swarms of tourists in Union Square, Fisherman’s Warf, or The Embarcadero. I first dined at Delfina in 2003 at the urging of a foodie friend in the Bay Area. The recommendation has turned out to be one of the best restaurant tips I have ever received. Suffice it to say that after my first meal I was hooked and now I have a very difficult time visiting San Francisco without making it to Delfina.

Delfina is the creation of Anne and Craig Stoll. The name, Delfina, is homage to Ristorante Da Delfina in Artimino, Tuscany. The food at Delfina is Italian inspired with a strong influence of local and seasonal meats, cheese, and produce. The menu changes daily reflecting what is fresh at the markets that day. They make their own sausages, pasta, and gelato and cure many of the meats and fish they serve. Everything at Delfina is always, fresh, clean, deeply flavored, and honest.

It’s clear that Stoll loves food. This may be an odd thing to hear as it is rightly assumed that a chef would naturally love food. Fair enough. However, I would suggest that many chefs love what they can do with food and some simply love themselves. When a patron at Delfina is presented with a plate, the food is star. Each dish is constructed to celebrate the ingredients and everything on the plate makes sense to the eye and most importantly to the palate. Less is more when great ingredients are employed and this credo is on display daily at Delfina.

Grilled calamari served on a warm, white bean salad is simple in nature while symphonic in its flavor attack. A roasted beet salad is a tribute to fresh produce and handmade pasta with wild boar ragu is decadent while rustic. One barometer of a kitchen is how they prepare something as seemingly simple as roast chicken. At Delfina you taste chicken as it was intended to be and on one visit I had what was undoubtedly the best pork chop that I have ever had (and I live in Chicago).

For those seeking a liquid companion to your meal, and who isn’t, Delfina’s wine list never disappoints. The list is constantly changing and evolving and always has a great number of unexpected wines from lesser known appellations and varietals. These wines are not included to be avant-garde rather they are there to support the cuisine. They do so brilliantly. Further, there is always a tasty and clever choice in the $30 per bottle range while you can splurge on wines nearing three digits in cost. While not cheap by any examination, the wine prices, on whole, are fair.

Another aspect of dining at Delfina that has always been spot on is service. The servers at Delfina know what they are doing and they are your ideal guides while dining here. They know the menu and they know their wines. The servers are plainly dressed and as unpretentious as the food they serve. They always seem to be there when needed and out of your hair when you are leaned back enjoying your meal. Simply put, they are the perfect extension of the restaurant.

In sum, Delfina is on my “must visit” list when I’m in San Francisco. It’s an oasis of flavor and common sense in a time when so many restaurants are exploring molecular gastronomy and various other self-aggrandizing ways to play with my food. For this, and many fantastic meals consumed here, I am grateful.