Ode to the Bartender

Some subjects are best left alone. For the longest time that is how I felt about the mixologist versus bartender discussion. I was never fond of the moniker mixologist but I understood it. The bartending world had become lazy in many cases and the title of bartender was in danger of becoming a punch line. Fresh ingredients had all but disappeared from the bar and the classic cocktails were tarnished beyond recognition. The mixologist was integral in righting these wrongs.

I’m not calling for the immediate abolition of the name “mixologist” but I am suggesting that we should start planning the memorial service. The term has served us well. It bridged the gap between the classic bartenders of old and the new breed of bartenders that have revived the noble profession of bartending. Now it’s time to retire the term before it becomes a cancer on the bar biz.

In the era of the TV dinner, food was not the only victim. Prepackaged drink mixes became all the rage as well. Flavor was traded for expedience and everyone went along because expedience was just so cool. At both the home and the commercial bar bottled mixers ruled the day and classic cocktails, invented by bartenders, were being destroyed. The margarita became three parts from bottle “A”, two parts ice, one part paint-thinner Tequila, and a flip of the blender switch. The once noble daiquiri was thought to be the surname of strawberry. The tantalizing and seductive sound of ice and drink crashing inside of a cocktail shaker gave way to the drone of a motorized blade. (I still have nightmares of slinging out gallons of frozen drinks on a Saturday night. Shiver…)

Today thoughtful bartenders are insisting on fresh ingredients. No more bottled juices, no more packaged drink mixes, and no shortcuts. The modern bartender has a firm grasp of the classics as well as a working knowledge of Spirits, Beer, and Wine. In the middle of the cocktail renaissance that we are enjoying I have seen it written on many occasions “the mixologist is not just a bartender…” Just a bartender? On the contrary, I believe that mixology is just one of many tools in the bartender’s arsenal. A bartender is not just a mixologist.

A great bartender is so much more than a creator and mixer of drinks. A great bartender marries a vast array of Beverage skills and knowledge along with people skills that would make a politician green with envy. A great bartender is an ambassador of his or her establishment and the mayor of the town. When I am on the road and find myself dining alone I rarely miss the opportunity to dine at the bar. If you are looking for local intelligence, clever banter, and stories that you will steal and make your own once home, then a seat at the bar is essential.

There in lies the problem with far too many mixologists. They can’t be bothered with customer attention - they’re artists you see… Too many mixologists are too cool for school. A bartender knows that their patrons don’t care to wait twenty minutes for a drink while they engage in some sort of ill-conceived performance art. The mixologist dreams about being offered a bundle of cash for their latest creations. They can’t wait to get out from behind the bar. (A bartender loves being behind the bar.) To this clique of mixologists the trappings are king. A vintage waistcoat is needed, an ivy cap is good, and a stunning array rings. Pleasing the paying patron is far down the list of priorities.

So why speak up after remaining silent on the topic for so long? I suppose that I have Gary Regan to blame. Gary via a social network site, asked, “Should bartenders trademark their drinks?” I replied that a bartender would never trademark a drink but a mixologist would. It was a remark made half tongue in cheek (okay, maybe a quarter) but it was a statement that clarified my thoughts internally. Gary always asks good questions.

In the early days of the modern (often young) bartender wanting to be known as a mixologist I chalked it up to a desire to separate themselves from the store-bought mixer crowd. There was also a great deal of camaraderie in the early days with rising bartender/mixologists sharing new discoveries and techniques. Don’t get me wrong. I firmly believe that everyone deserves to be rewarded for his or her work and I value the individual above all. It’s just a bit ironic that these mixologists have earned a living for some time making drinks that someone else had invented. Who owns the rights to guacamole? I probably owe them a few pesos.

To add a further subjective twist to the discussion I would submit that just as the contemporary mixologist has missed the importance of the vital role played by the bartender, they have also missed the primary goal of the cocktail, to be a tasty. I judge my share of cocktail competitions and most often walk away with the feeling of being underwhelmed. Far too many drinks are constructed for other mixologists sensibilities using ingredients that are in vogue and often far too many ingredients. This is not an original circumstance and one that affected many chefs as they strived for immortality in the creator’s hall of fame and forgot to please their patron’s palates. In the end most chefs have come around and have embraced the mantra that less is truly more. The mixologist will not be far behind and once there, they will likely wish to be called bartender.

Viva the Bartender!