A Sherry Primer

Spain Sherry

I thought that I would include a Sherry primer in order to possibly generate some interest in this great, unique creation that is scandalously under appreciated in this country. I often get questions about Sherry and have determined that this wonderful drink is terribly misunderstood. I know your grandmother would sip Sherry daily from a big brown jug and the stuff smelled like an old sock stuffed with rotting fruit and buried in the backyard. Chances are that she was not drinking "real" Sherry rather a cheap knock-off made somewhere in the New World and sold for the equivalent sum of a tube of toothpaste. Real, legitimate Sherry is thrilling and sometimes sublime and is worthy of your attention. So read and then go get some.

Along with Port and Madeira (no intended slight of Marsala), Sherry is one of the world's three great fortified wines. Sherry comes in a wide range of styles from pale straw colored aperitifs, to rich and viscous sweet brown nectar. Unlike Port and Madeira, Sherry is simpatico with value seekers. For less than $15 one can find exceptional examples of virtually all types of Sherry, and in some cases you can get the best. Sherry comes from a small, strictly defined region in and around the city of Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. Jerez, along with Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda form what is known as the Sherry Triangle. It is from Jerez, that we get the Anglican word Sherry. Sherry's production zone lies in the southwest corner of Spain in the Andalusian district. Andalusia was home to historical figures such as Christopher Columbus, and storybook characters like Carmen and the Barber of Seville.

Sherry Types

There are two fundamental types of Sherry, Fino and Oloroso, from which many variations are spawned. The primary difference of these two basic types is the "flor." Flor is a protective film that develops spontaneously from air-born indigenous yeasts, on the surface of the wine. The flor guards the wine from oxidation while contributing to the wine's flavor and character. In years past, the type of Sherry was determined by the wine itself. If the flor developed, the wine was destined to be a Fino. If the flor had not developed, the wine was destined to become Oloroso. Thanks to modern techniques and equipment today's Sherry type is determined when the grapes are pressed. The first pressing of lighter and more delicate juice is most often destined to become Fino. After the dry white wine is made it is placed in casks filled to approximately 90 percent capacity, allowing space for the flor to develop. The casks are then placed in special bodegas whose conditions are most favorable for the creation of the flor. Subsequent pressing of more robust juice is vinified (made into wine), immediately fortified, and placed in casks to begin the long aging process to become Oloroso.

Sherry Styles

Fino
Fino is a style of Sherry as well as one of the two types of Sherry as we previously discussed. Fino is primarily produced in Puerto. They are dry wines with a crisp clean character, flavors reminiscent of almonds, and a memorable bouquet of the flor. Fino is one of the world's greatest aperitifs showing incredible grace and delicacy despite its high, 17 percent alcohol strength.

One should always look for fresh, no more than one year old, bottlings of Fino, as it does not fair well after it is bottled. Unfortunately, there are no bottling dates to be found on the labels so you must consult a reputable wine merchant. Fino should always be served cool.

Manzanilla
Manzanilla is a specific variety of Fino made solely in Sanlucar. In Sanlucar, casks of Fino are cellared near the coast where they acquire the salty and tangy taste of the sea. This is the lightest and most delicate style of all the Sherries. Like Fino, Manzanilla is an excellent aperitif pairing especially well with shellfish. Also like Fino, Manzanilla losses it fresh vibrant flavors quickly and must be drunk soon after bottling. I fear that many have had unfavorable encounters with Fino and Manzanilla due to old, dusty bottles found on a store shelf.

Amontillado
In simple terms, Amontillado is an aged Fino. Amontillados that are birthed by simply allowing the flor to die and sink are most often the finest examples. This process can take up to a decade. As the flor deteriorates, the wine becomes exposed to air causing oxidation and evaporation. Both of these results are desirable as the oxidation creates Amontillado's signature nutty flavors and mahogany hue, while evaporation leads to concentration of flavors and alcohol. When the aging process is complete, the wine is completely dry, as are all Sherries at this stage. The Amontillado can now be bottled dry, or, as is most common, it may be sweetened with Pedro Ximenez or Moscatel. Therefore, it is difficult to generalize regarding Amontillado's use at the table since sugar levels vary. If the Amontillado is dry, the label will generally state that fact. All Amontillado, dry or sweet, is best enjoyed at room temperature or slightly cool.

Palo Cortado
A rare style of Oloroso that is, in some respects, akin to Amontillado. The wine is fresh and crisp while retaining Oloroso's depth, complexity and color. In contrast to both Amontillado and Oloroso, Palo Cortado is most often bottled in its natural dry state.

Oloroso
Like Fino, Oloroso is also bottled as a style. Similar in character to Amontillado, Oloroso is richer still with a rounder, fuller palate. The word, Oloroso, means "fragrant" in Spanish. Aptly named, Oloroso exhibits a generous bouquet of dried fruit, nuts and toffee. Rare dry bottlings of Oloroso can make for interesting experiments at the table as the wines inherent richness marries well with a variety of foods. Like Amontillado, Oloroso is most often sweetened. Serve at room temperature.

Cream Sherry
With few exceptions, Cream Sherry is simply a heavily sweetened Oloroso. Pedro Ximenez or Moscatel dominates the wine's flavor profile. These wines are desert in a bottle. The style was originally developed in Bristol, England, and can be found to this day in the famous Harvey's Bristol Cream.

Varietally labeled Sherry: Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel
Palomino is the dominant grape variety of Sherry while Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel are primarily used to sweeten Amontillado and Oloroso. On their own these two grape varieties produce sweet, concentrated wines. In recent years, Sherry made exclusively from these minor grapes has become more readily available. Moscatel produces a Sherry that is unbelievably perfumed and remarkably delicate considering its sugar and alcohol. Pedro Ximenez produces a massive Sherry that is incredibly dark, viscous, and complex.

Solera, the Magical Process of Aging Sherry

As has been discussed with the various types and styles, Sherry must be aged in wooden barrels; some age for many decades. Sherry is aged in a unique method that blends younger with older wines in order to maintain a consistent house style from year to year. This method is known as the Solera system. For this reason, you rarely see vintage dated Sherry.

To understand the Solera system, imagine a series of casks stacked one upon the other. The bottom cask contains Sherry ready to be bottled. When the wine is drawn from this bottom cask, only a third is extracted. The cask is then topped with wine from the cask immediately above it; which is topped with wine form the cask above it and so on throughout the stack. The stack is the Solera. As the wine in all casks continues to age, it is constantly refreshed with wine that is slightly younger. A consistent, and complex Sherry is drawn time after time.

Enjoying Sherry

Spanish restaurants, especially Tapas bars, are a great place to sample a variety of Sherries while experimenting with their food compatibility. Since Sherry is such a relative bargain in the world of wine, one could affordably host a comparative Sherry tasting in their home. Begin with Manzanilla and/or Fino served chilled (Consult a trusted wine merchant to insure freshness). Move to a dry bottling of Amontillado followed by a sweetened version. Finish with an Oloroso followed by a Cream Sherry or better yet, a Pedro Ximenez. Keep in mind that Sherry is a fortified wine that means that its alcohol is nearly double that of your typical table wine (18 to 20 percent) small portions, remember that it is a tasting and you can always go back a give a favorite a second try.